I saw this movie in a big movie theater when I lived in Chicago and now own the DVD. It is one of my all time fave surfing movies/documentaries. It's a captivating and intriguing film that shows how surfing is possible, no matter where you are. If you're in cold Sheboygan Wisconsin, surfing off the side of an Oil Rig ship in the Houston ship channel, or surfing down a sand dune, everyone can find their stoke wherever they are! After watching this film, I pretty much decided there and then I would move to San Diego as soon as I could so I could surf every day (or at least every weekend day)!
The one thing I love about surfing, is it is a thrilling sport that you can do until the day you die. Yes, till death do us part for surfing and me, and the surfers in this film. This movie/documentary is about these surfers that are 60+ and still catching waves and getting stoked! I hope I can be like that when I get to that point of my life. Granted, they aren't charging the North Shore, but to be able to keep catching waves and not let age define who you are or what you can do is what I completely identify with regarding this surf film. It's another must have for your surfing collection for sure!
"I don't need easy, I just need possible" - that is my favorite quote from this surf movie and pretty much sums up pro surfer Bethany Hamilton's grit and tenacity at overcoming the challenge she faced after a shark attack. Every time I'm out surfing and I'm wiping out all the time and I'm feeling frustrated, I think of this quote and what is possible if I truly commit to something and stick it out! It's a movie not a documentary, but I truly think it does do a great job of showcasing Bethany's character and what she went through. An inspiring surf movie indeed!
I couldn't have a list of must have surf films for your collection and not mention the legendary surf film classic, The Endless Summer. If you can't travel the world and see all the wonderful and amazing surf breaks out there, this is the next closest thing! There are some places they feature in this film that I definitely want to go and ride waves for miles. Ah, the endless summer. I'd just take a "summer vacation" like you got when you were a kid for now. Oh well, I guess that's what I'll wait to retire for - because you can surf for life!!!
I admit, I recently watched this surf documentary on Netflix, however after watching it, I do believe it is another must have for a surf film collection! The documentary centers around the Paskowitz family who lived the simple life, caravan style, cruising up and down the coast surfing various places and around the U.S. I think the film does a great job of keeping it real and showing the positive aspect of their life, along with the drawbacks. It could be very easy to make a film about the hippie way of life and peace, love, harmony without the need for money, but it doesn’t take that route. It definitely showcases how living simply and without waste is a great thing and the freedom that you have by not being “normal” and doing the typical corporate thing. However there are drawbacks as many of the children felt like they were missing out on a lot in life, by being raised the way they grew up, not even with formal schooling. I think every surfer out there has always dreamed about just taking off in an RV and surfing up and down the coast and not worrying with money and the financial stresses that come with it. However the film does take a balanced approach and in the end you can see both sides of the story. A true thinking surf film for sure, as you can have knowledge, but that doesn’t make you wise! Life and the experiences that come along with it are what give you wisdom!
This movie is what I call a "Surf Chick Flick". Kind of like a chick flick with a surf chicks instead! The story was a bit predictable however it's just a fun and inspiring film showcasing surfer chicks surfing like girls by truly ripping it up and shredding those gnarly north shore waves in Hawaii. I did like the relationship between the 3 friends and especially how Kate Bosworth's character looked after her little sister like a mother. I think it also showcased the surfing lifestyle accurately up at the North Shore, you really kind of get what it feels to life and surf there by watching the film, well all of what I know of living there! I've been there once and walked from Waimea to Sunset beach when it was flat. I gotta go back there when it's pumping, so that I can watch, ha! A fun surf film indeed!
Chasing Mavericks is the most recent full release surf movie that nails all of the training that goes into surfing and how strong and committed you have to be to charge those ominously powerful waves up at Half Moon Bay! I went up there once as I was curious about the waves and there weren't nearly as huge as they can be, but even when I was there, I could tell the force behind them was not to be taken lightly. Gerard Butler even got a taste of the mighty hold down when he was out filming the movie. What I love about this movie is how it deals with fear and how fear is not bad, it is panicking that is bad. It truly puts things into perspective and is an entertaining film as well!