“I’ve got a secret, it’s a good one!”
I think I’m stealing a line from Lilly in a Veronica Mars episode, but that’s how I feel…..
After watching the Billabong Tahiti Pro and literally being on the edge of my seat at work while watching Kelly Slater and John John Florence’s TIED quarter finals heat (which the win went to Kelly since he had a perfect 10), I’ve decided that professional surfing is the biggest secret out there!
I love being a fan and cheering on my teams! That’s why I love going to watch college basketball games with IU alumni here in San Diego, especially around the do or die March Madness time. The camaraderie you feel when everyone gathers to root for the same team & then everybody starts jumping up and down high fiving each other when something really great happens, that’s what I love about watching sports! When the World Cup was taking place, I remember our agency had it playing on the big screen and everyone was gathering around to watch and cheer on the U.S. soccer team which was so amazing. Professional soccer is truly a global phenomenon, and even though I don’t follow the sport, I have a complete admiration and respect for those players that are hustling non-stop up and down the field chasing that ball!
However unlike college basketball, professional soccer and football, when you’re watching a pro surfing event, there are no teams – it’s every surfer for him or herself. It’s fun to root for surfers you’re a big fan of or if they’re on your surfing fantasy team. However, at the end of an event, there’s really no personal letdown for me, if my surfer doesn’t win. I always feel so stoked for the surfer who has gotten through on top and conquered something new! I was rooting for Kelly Slater as I just love his love of surfing and was completely with him when he was talking about how high he was getting off the best contest waves he’s ever surfed at Chopes. I get a high from the little ones I surf, I think I would blast off like a rocket to the moon if I ever could surf a wave like he has.
However, Gabriel Medina won me over with his Tahiti Pro win when he said that his mom told him to just thank God. I bet his mom was praying to God every second of that surfing contest with the powerful ominous waves he owned! Surfing definitely humbles you and makes you think about the bigger things in life. It was also super funny to see Gabriel’s demeanor change once he started speaking his native Portuguese language when being interviewed after the win, he just got this huge grin on his face. I wonder what he was saying then! The clip below is a shortened clip that doesn’t show the things I’m referencing, just in case you’re looking.
It’s literally awe inspiring to see these super human professional surfers take on waves of such force and magnitude like the ones in Tahiti! I remember hearing a commenter on the webcasted event say something to the effect that it was the equivalent force of a 3 story building falling on you, if you wiped out on one of these waves. Even on smaller waves, it’s exhilarating to see the height that some professional surfers can get propelling themselves in the air towards the sun, like my surfer boys song says!
So I have a dilemma! Do I try and get more people around me excited about these professional surfing contests so I have more people to watch them with and talk to them about afterwards or do I keep it my little secret along with other surfers out there? I’ve thought about hosting a beer bar at our agency (we have them every Thursday) when a pro surfing event happens to be going on and have the beer bar take the event theme that day and play it live on the big screen in the office. However if pro surfing gets to be at the March Madness/World Cup level, will it feel less special, less intimate to me? I’m not sure. Bigger isn’t always better, even in the case of waves – it’s the length and speed of the ride that matters to me 🙂
I guess I’m just gonna keep it my little secret. I’m kind of getting tired of trying so hard to get others to see the excitement I have for other things music or surf related. Unless you’re a surfer that has been tossed around under the ocean like you’re in a washing machine and come up gasping for air, I really don’t think you’ll ever be able to get the thrill of the sport. The professional surfers just make it look a million times easier than it is because they have so much experience and are so incredibly fit!
Therefore that’s another reason I’ve taken up blogging. Maybe by blogging about things I’m passionate about, I’ll meet a lot of like-minded people like me that identify with my music or the music I’m a fan of and connect with other surf enthusiasts out there without having to pay any membership dues of any sorts. So here I am Google searchers, leave a comment or two, start a discussion. Nobody probably will, but maybe someday, the phrase, if you build it, they will come, will come to reality!